Recording Studio Build - Part 2

by Daniel Dennis · 1 comment

Click here for Part 1 (of 3) of the “Recording Studio Build” article.

For insulation, you want density, and Rockwool (or something comparable) is great. It comes in large bundles/sheets, so it’s ready to be placed in your framing. Like any other fiberglass insulation, you’ll want to wear protective gear because this stuff doesn’t play around. You’ll be itchy for weeks if you don’t. Trust me, it’s not fun!

Rockwool Bundles

Rockwool Going Up!

Rockwool Progress

More Rockwool Progress

With everything insulated, it’s drywall time. Two sheets of 5/8” drywall board are on all of the walls and ceiling. Once one layer of drywall was on, caulk was applied to the seams and along the bottom of the walls. Once the second layer was on, additional caulking was added. Just for looks, I added a tray ceiling to the tracking room.

First Layer of Drywall - Tracking Room

Drywall Everywhere!

Mud and Tape

Can Lights and One Layer of Drywall - Tracking Room

Drywall Progress - Tracking Room

Drywall Progress - Hallway

Tracking Room - Building Tray Ceiling

Second Layer of Drywall Up - Tracking Room

Tracking Room - Second Layer Drywall Done

Building the Window

Probably the trickiest part of this whole process was building the window just right. Two 8’x38” pieces of laminate glass (1/4” and 3/8” thickness) had to be airtight and look good, too. Here’s how I did it:

1. I added a 1/8” layer of rubber all the way around. The back of the rubber has an adhesive that sticks to the frame. The idea is to keep the two rooms separate. If you add wood to the space between the walls, you’re allowing sound vibrations to travel through the wood from one room to the other. Adding rubber eliminates this problem and allows you to continue on to the next step.

Adding 1/8" Rubber to the Window

1/8" Rubber Complete

2. The actual frame opening was 40” in height. So to accommodate the 38” of glass, the top and bottom had to be built up about 1”. An additional wood board was added top and bottom to each wall. Using chipboard with the exact thickness and height of the glass as a reference, I permanently installed the inside wood stops, where the glass would be placed against. Every seam was caulked.

Studio Window Building

3. Fiberglass insulation (703 Owens Corning) was cut into strips to fill the inside gaps (space between the walls).

Fiberglass

4. The same fabric that I decided to use on the acoustic treatment was used for the window dressing (Guilford of Maine Fabric). Double-sided tape was used to hold the cloth in place. The main focus was to get the interior done before the glass was installed.

Fabric Wrapping

Fabric for the Inside

5. With the glass installed, temporary wood stops hold the glass in place while each wood stop is wrapped in fabric, then installed one at a time. (All sides of glass caulked.)

Glass Installed

Studio Window Complete

6. Thick, wood molding (baseboard) was used to create the outside frame for the window.

Window Molding/Frame

Most of what I learned came from reading “Home Recording Studio: Build It Like the Pros”. If you’re thinking about converting any space into a studio or even just interested in how studios are built, then I highly recommend this book. It’s one of those books that you really can’t put a price on - it’s that valuable. From wall construction to acoustic panel placement, it’s all there and then some, in an easy-to-understand writing style.